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DA Pom 750-30 T July 1969 

(Supersedes DA Pam 750-30, 28 June 1968) 



Remove extractor and 
spring assembly for 
cleaning only. 
Remember not to 
lose, damage or 
separate them. 


Remove the sling. 


Toke handguards 
off by first pulling 
down on the 
slip ring. 

Use the firing pin 
to release the 
receiver pivot pin. 

Separate the upper 
and lower receivers. 


Push the buffer 
assembly in about 
Va inch, press in 
on the buffer retainer, 
then release the guide. 

Take out the 
buffer assembly 
and spring. 


If you goofed and 
separated the spring 
from the extractor, 
insert the large end of 
the spring in the 
extractor and seat it. 

Install the sling. 

Install by first 
putting handguards 
in place, then push 
up on slip ring. 

Engage the receiver O 
pivot pin. 

Insert the spring 
and buffer 

Join the upper and O 
lower receivers. 

If your M16A1 rifle refuses to pop 
off — or quits popping sudden-like — 
you've got a stoppage that needs im- 
mediate action. 

Immediate Action: Instinctively do- 
ing the right thing to clear your weapon 
and get it firing again, soonest! 

Here's a slow motion of the proce- 
dure you'd best make second nature: 

Careful, though, never 
"ride" the charger— let 
it go on its own. 

Now, again hit the for- 
ward assist to make sure 
the bolt's closed ... and 
pull tfie trigger. 

Tap upward on the 
magazine to make sure 
it's seated right. 

Now pull the charging 
handle all the way back 
ond see if a whole cor- 
tridge or case comes out. 

If a cartridge or case Is 
ejected, release the charg- 
ing handle to feed a new 

If she won't fire, now look for the cause 
... a bad round, busted firing pin or hammer 
spring, or whatever. Table 3-3 in 
your -12, TM covers causes and cures. 

If no cartridge or cose ejects, first look for 
a round in the chamber. If none's there, once 
more release the charging handle to feed a 
round. Next hit the forward assist and again 
pull the trigger. 

If she still won't fire, do what your 
TM says on trouble-shooting. 

However, if you do find a cartridge 
or case in the chamber, be sure you 
remove it before you try to reload and 
recycle your weapon. 

Now, remember, gtt these steps 
down pat. 


Keep your ammo and magazine as 
clean and dry as possible. The only 
part of the mflgazine that gets any 
lube is the spring — and it gets only 
a very light touch of ISA. Oil it up 
and you're headed for trouble. 



Inspect your ammo when you load 
the magazines. Never load dented or 
dirty ammo. Remember, Never 
load ovee 20 round*. 

Clean your rifle every chance you 
get — 3-5 times a day's not too 
often in some cases. Cleanliness is a 
must — and it may save your life! 

Be sure to clean carbon and dirt 
from those barrel locking lugs. Pipe 

cleaners help here and inside 
the carrier key. 

Never be bashful about asking for 
cleaning materials when you need 
'em. They're available. Get 'em and 
use' em! 

Here's why-. If you jam the receivers closed while the selector's in the AUTO position, you'll 
force the automatic sear down and damage the automatic sear, and the sear pin, and will 
likely rough up the bottom of the bolt carrier. 

Here's something you want to 
be real careful about. Don't — like 
Never! — close the upper and lower 
receivers while the selector lever's in 
the AUTO position. 

Always — like Always! — point the 
lever to SAFE or SEMI before closing 
the receivers. 


That's 'cause when the selector lever's in the AUTO position, the tang 
of the automatic sear moves to the rear. You can see how it works by 
opening the receiver and turning the selector to AUTO and watching the 
movement of the tang of the automatic sear. 

So-o-o ... do it right . . . every time. Point the arrow to SAFE. Then 
the receivers will close without any interference. 


Speaking of magazines . . . every guy 
has his own idea of how firm or loose 
he wants the holding action of the 
magazine catch to be. Which is A-OK 
as far as it goes. But remember this: 
The tighter the mag's held in the re- 
ceiver, the more pressure it takes to 
release it. And this: The farther the 
shaft of the catch sticks through the 
catch button, the tighter the magazine's 
held in the receiver. 


So, take a cue from experience. Adjust the catch button so's it's just about 
flush with the inner groove or just sticks out a tiny bit. This' 11 make the 
catch firm enough to prevent accidentally bumping the button and letting the 
magazine drop out — ^yet it won't be so tight that you can't pull the mag out 
for a quick re- load. 

No sweat adjusting the catch' the 
way you want it, either . . . and you're 
authorized to pull this deal. Just press 
the button on the right side of the rifle 
with the nose of a cartridge far enough 
so's you can turn the catch on the left 
side of the weapon. You turn the han- 
dle clockwise to tighten it and counter- 
clockwise to loosen it. Best of all, you 
don't have to take the weapon apart 
to do this. 

You won't have any trouble with the new-type swabs listed in your new 
TM (FSN 1005-912-4248). 

O'course, some guys've been complaining about old-type, big-size clean- 
ing swabs jamming in the bore — and breaking the cleaning rod. You won't 
have this trouble if you cut 'em all into four equal squares before using 
*em. Your bayonet will do the job if you don't happen to have aj<nife or 
. a pair of scissors 


7, i^J^ghiii /i/l^W 


Now that you've got a plastic coverall bag (FSN 1005-809-2190) to protect 
'your MI6A1 rifle against dust, sand, mud, water and such, here's how to use it 
in good health — yours and your weapon's. 

First, make sure your rifle's cleaned and lubed before you bag it. This cover's 
an aid to PM, but it'll never replace the cleaning and lubing you'll always have 
to do regularly. In fact, with a rubber band closing — not to mention rips and 
tears — the bag's not guaranteed watertight, so-oo-o. ., . . 

Second, if you're gonna keep it bagged more than 24 hours, be sure you eye- 
ball the weapon every day for signs of corrosion from any moisture or condensa- 
tion that might form in the bag. 

Tciking if ©ff— Slip the rubber band off 
and unfold the cover end. Then slide the rifle 

Put it on and off 
gently and you can 

tlie cover 
seveTal times. 


Comes a sudden opportunity to bag an enemy, here're 2 ways you can work it: 

1. Quick-rip the bag off with one steady 
yank. The bag'll come apart at the tear- 

2. If absolutely necessary, you can fire right 
through the bag. You can operate the 
selector lever and trigger easy with the 
bog on. But, remember this: Ejected cases 
will be trapped in the bag and could cause 
a malfunction after the first round. So get 
it off as quick as you can. 


Natch, after "emergency" use, you'll need a new bag. 




11E3 cleaning rod is a 
ffair (counting the swab 

one piece), as compared 
for the MllEl and M11E2.^ 
all length is the sann,e, 
Each section is shorter, 

The threads on the E-3 are the 
same as on the E- 1 and E-2, which 
rr.eans it takes the new bore and 
chamber brushes. 

Don't sweat it, though. The new 
E-3's probably won't make the rounds 
till supplies of the E-l's and E-2's are 


Could be that some time you might 
have to use other cleaning tools in a 
pinch. If you do, here's what to look 
for: Different threads. 

Your Ml6Ars own tools — clean- 
ing rods and brushes alike — all have 
real fine threads ... 36 to the inch. 

But, if you're ever in a spot where 
you have to use any other rod, like the 
Mil (FSN 1005-070-7812) or any 
other bore brush like the one that car- 
ries FSN 7920-205-2401, or any other 
chamber brushes, like the Ml (FSN 
1005-691-1381) or the M14 (FSN 
1005-690-8441), watch this: 

Their threads are coarser (32 to the 
inch). They won't match up with your 
authorized equipment. Don't try to 
screw 'em together. Won't work! 

No sweat, though, on swabs. If you 

have the 30-cal type (FSN 1005-288- 

? 3565), just cut these big ones into 4 

equal parts . . . and go ahead with your 

cleaning. ^ ^ 



*./*^1 FIREPOWi 

Your Ml6Ars the spunky teenager 
of the small arms field, sure, but it's 
doing a man-size job. So it deserves 
reasonable treatment — especially in 
cleaning and lubing its lower receiver 

matic sear, the hammer assembly, the 
trigger and the selector lever are all 
made of steel. 

So, if you keep taking the lov^^er 
receiver apart, these pins' 11 bye-n-bye 
make the holes they go through bigger 
and bigger. First thing you know, the 
pins fall out and get lost — or the 
parts they hold won't line up right and 
your firing's 'way oflf. 

Truth is, you are not authorized to 
remove the lower receiver's parts at all. 
You can do a good cleaning job, if you 
do it this-a-way — and do it every day. 

Wrap a piece oT clean ciotn or cleaning 
patch around the brush handle and poke 
it into the hard-to-get-at places. Do the 
best job you can to get rid of carbon and 
gook that could keep the parts from work- 
ing right. 

Of course, this all centers on remov- 
ing or not removing the components of 
the lower receiver to do the servicing 

It's a fact. The 5.56-mm rifle doesn't 
like having its lower receiver taken 
apart for cleaning — and for good 

The lower receiver's made of alu- 
minum to keep the weapon light- 
weight. But the pins that hold the auto- 

1. Soak your artist brush (FSN 8020-244- 
01531 or other similar type brush real 
good with bore deaner. Then scrub oil 
the ports like there's no tomorrow to get 
off all the dirt and carbon you cor 

4. When you're oil through — and the lower 
receiver's dry — put a generous coat 
of LSA (FSN 9 150-935-6597) on all 
of the insides of the tower receiver and 
on all of the parts. 

A cleaning job like this will get rid 
of all the carbon and dirt that might 
keep your weapon from shooting right. 
Any stuflf that's left after you do your 
level best won't make no never-mind. 
Of course, if the lower receiver ever 
gets so fouled up that the rifle won't 
fire right, then you let support have a 
whack at it. 

Now you can understand why TM 
9-1005-249-12 (1968) with Ch 1, 
does not authorize disassembly of the 

lower receiver group for cleaning by 
riflemen and armorers. Parts replace- 
ment and extra- tough cleaning jobs are 
for direct or general support only. 

But, please don't miss out on that 
lubing job. All components of the 
lower receiver — as well as the bolt 
carrier group — must wear a coat of 
LSA at all times. No ''buts" about it. 
Your rifle can't perform without it. 

That*s why "white-glove inspec- 
tions" are too risky for this baby. 
There's always the danger that some 
guy might be tempted to give his weap- 
on a shower or tub bath before inspec- 
tion to get rid of dirt and lube. 

Anybody who bathes his rifle is do- 
ing it dirt two ways: First, he's robbing 
it of the lube protection it needs. Sec- 
ond, he's liable to let water seep into 
the lower receiver extension. This could 
cause corrosion of the extension and 
rusting of the action spring — or it 
might result in a short recoil of the bolt 
carrier group, thereby preventing the 
bolt assembly from retraaing far 
enough to strip a cartridge from the 

When you consider that all this has 
a direct bearing on how well your 
Ml6Ars going to fire and protect your 
hide in a showdown, these angles make 
real good sense, don't they.'* 



Combat types can't emphasize this enough: Clean the gas port in the bolt 
carrier group every day — and take it real easy with the lube. Dirt and powder- 
fouling — plus an overdose of lube oil — will give you a sluggish rifle. . . . 
Numbah 10 Thou' in a combat situationl 

So, when you get your baby stripped for cleaning, like it says in para 
3-9 in TM 9-1005-249-12 (1968) with Ch 1, take an extra 5 seconds to 
get at the port hole down there in the front end of the gas tube. Like so: 

1. Work a worn bore brush full o f bore cleoner ground 
inside the key. 

Make sure you get the metal end of the 
brush in all the way — right into the bot- 
tom of the hole where the gas tube is 
seated in the carrier key — and then turn 
it to loosen the crud. That lost K«-in in 
there is the most neglected port on most 
M16AI rifles. 

2. Then use a pipe deoner or the like to poke the gook out of the pert. 
Don't use wire, though, or you might scratch the tube and set up 
worse trouble later on. 



3. Use another pipe 
deoner — or air-dry 
it by waving it 
around — to dry 
the tube as well 
OS you con. 

4. Now doublecheck your job. Remove the bolt. Then stick the corrier body into the receiver slide- 
way and push the carrier back and forth slowly to check that the corrier key and gas tube 
line up OK. The carrier should move freely ... and should go all the way without friction. If it 
won't go all the way without a struggle, you've got some more cleaning to do. But, if it binds, 
turn the weapon in for repair. 

Here's the Pilch: The front end of the gas tube is self-cleaning, thanks to the hot gases 
and high pressure from the barrel. But, if you don't keep the other end clean • ' 
area where it motes with the carrier key inside the receiver — hrotherl You'v 
this area with elbow grease to prevent stoppages. Hear! 

Now, when you come to lube-preserving, stick to the dope in the lube guide 
of this pamphlet. 


Another couple places you won't want to forget when you're cleaning your 
weapon are the claw under the extraaor in the bolt group and the locking lug 
recesses on the barrel extension in the upper receiver. If dirt and crud 

coUea under the extractor, the claw won't be able to snap over the rim of a 
cartridge case. And if gook and brass chips from cases gather in the recesses, 
your bolt aaion will be stymied. So, bear down on your bore brush in both 
these places. 

While you have the bolt group apart — and after you clean 
-make a practice of eye-checking these parts: 

BOLT — Cracks or fractures, especiaHy in the cam pin hole 
area. This bolt has a great service record so tar, but it pays to 
be on the lookout for that first sign of weakness. Don't worry 
about any discoloration you find there, though. It's harmless. 

CAM PIN — Cracked, chipped, missing. Be sure it's in place 
when you put the parts back together. A rifle could explode if 
you fired it with the cam pin missing. 

Bent, busted, badly worn. If one 
or both tangs are busted, there's 
no sweat as long as it'll hold the 
firing pin in place. But, be mighty 
careful you don't lose it when 
you're doing PM. A rifle fired with 
this pin missing may fire once — 
but that's all. The firing pin would 
then fall out and — no-fire! 

A^H^ OtP 







Chamber and Boft Locking Recei^: Gean 
'em after every doy's firing if you can. Use 
your chamber cleaning brush FSN 1005-999- 
1435 or any standard bore brush like the 30-, 
45- or 50-cal or 7.62-mm brush. Dip the brush 

in bore cleaner get oil the gook out of the 

chamber and bolt locking recess. Then dry the 
areas real good. Last, opply a fight coot of 
ISA by wiping it with a swob dampened with 
the oil. 

Bolt Carrier: Remove it from your weopon 
and fietd-strip it at least once a week. Use 
bore cleaner with any bore brush mentioned 
above and attack oil parts, especially behind 
the rings and under the lip of the extractor. 
Clean the carrier key with your bore brush FSN 
1005-903-1296 ond bore cleaner. Then dry 
all the ports real good and coat 'em with LSA. 

Extractor and Extractor Spring: Double 
check 'em every day, at least. Eyeball the 
extractor for chipped or broken edges in the 
area of the lip that engoges the cartridge rim. 
Replace it if you find it damaged. Test the 
extractor spring by pressing on the extractor. 
If the spring's weak, replace it. 

RIMIMBIR — Watch your lubing. Too much lube speeds carbon buildup 
in the chamber and bolt locking recess. Same thing with the carrier key. 
A rag or swab or even a pipe cleaner dampened with LSA will do the 
trick here. Best bet: Follow the guide on pages 22-24. 





'© — 1 

Here' re some coaching hints for a better season with your M16A1 rifle in 'the 
Vietnam League. 


Probably not. But you could use the 
same idea when you're bor-e-brushing 
your weapon. Right. Choke up on the 
cleaning rod — hold it about 2 inches 
from the receiver and push it straight 
inch by inch in short jerks all the way 
through the flash suppressor. Then pull 
it back all the way out — again in short 
jerks. Never pull the brush back till 
after it's gone through the flash sup- 
pressor. Do it the right way and you 
won't hurt the rod. 

Same idea goes when you're running patches through. Run it all the way 
through the flash suppressor before you start to pull back ... no matter what 
size patches you're using — the one for the M16A1 (FSN 1005-912-4248) or 
any large type that you have to cut into 4 equal squares. 


By the way, when was the last time 
your unit armorer — Max Schnell, good 
'ol Speedy Four — checked out your 
weapon.^ Don't know? Can't remem- 
ber? Then it's due right now for a 
physical. Get with it! Maxie's the best 
partner you'll ever have . . . PM-wise. 

Here're a couple ways Maxie can 
shortstop trouble for you: 

Any time you run into real trouble 

with crud or carbon buildup when 
you're cleaning your rifle — especially 
in the bolt and locking recess area — 
get your armorer to help you tackle it 
with P-C-111 carbon removing com- 
pound, FSN 6850-965-2332, 5-gal paiL 




Some guys really spoil a 
play by reaching out for 
balls not meant for 'em. 
Bumped heads and lost 
games result. 

Ditto for all parts of the upper receiver assembly. If any part gets bent^ — like 
the ears around the rear sight — or any part comes loose or busted, f'goshsakes, 
don't you try to fix it — nor you, either, Maxie J Turn the weapon in to DS. 

And still one more: Natch, when you're field stripping your rifle you'll be 
careful not to drop the carrier and key assembly or bump 'em against anything 
hard. The carrier key bends pretty easy — and then won't line up inside the 
weapon. But, if they do get bent, don't you or your armorer try to straighten 
*em. That's a drive too hot to handle. Let DS fix 'em. 

You're bound to have a good season if you stay on the ball with your PM. 


While we're gabbing about water, 
let's hammer home the importance of 
keeping it out of the lower receiver, too. 
This may not have anything directly to 
do with blowing up your shooter, but it 
could keep it from firing — which is the 
next worst thing. 

Right, every time you clean your 
Ml6 — and every time you drain water 
from the bore — take an extra second 
to make sure the drain hole in the butt 
stock capscrew is open , . . and drain the 
butt, too. 

A pipe cleaner's about the handiest 
thing for keeping this hole clear. 

If water stays in the lower receiver, 

it'll foul up the working parts . . . cause 
corrosion and dampen your ammo. 

So, remember, huh?' 

All of this boils down to one thing, 
then: Your Prevention is the cure. 


Here'reo couple-three lube tips rho! II help 
yau and your armorer get the most ovrt a 
Ling ISA (Lube Oil. Semi-flu.d, mmm{ 
Weapons, MIL-L-46000W on your 5.56-MM 

W16A1 lop-machine anywhere but in real 
cold-weather areas. 


Yessir, LSA's here to stay. It does a better lubing job on working parts, espe- 
cially in a muggy-wet climate like Vietnam's ... it lasts longer it really pro- 
tects metal surfaces. Here*re the stock numbers that'll fetch it for you: FSN 
50-935-6597 — 2-ozLSA tube; FSN 9150-889-3522 — 4-02 tube; FSN 9150-687- 
4241 — l-qt can; FSN 9150-753-4686— 1-gal can. 


The big trick to using LSA is to get plenty of it on the working parts — like 
those inside the upper and lower receivers — and very light doses in other 
places — like the bore and chamber, inside the carrier key, inside the bolt and 
on the firing pin and the magazine spring — and none at all on your ammo or 
on the inside of your magazine. 

CLEANING — Normally, you want your rifle spitting clean inside and out be- 
fore you apply LSA. So do a real good job after every firing mission, following 
the good word in your TM by using rifle bore cleaner (CR). 

Too busy fighting.^ OK, then postpone the cleaning BUT lube all the work- 
ing parts with LSA frequently and generously. 






Be sure you keep that drainage hole in the butt 
cap screw unclogged at all times. A pipe cleaner 
or rice stra w worksf " 

fine for this 






Yep, "fighting's" the word. 

You only use these new plastic protective caps (FSN 5340- 
880-7666) when you're in action . . , not when your shooter's 
put up for a day or more. Else condensation' 11 build up and 
ruin the bore. 

The cap'll keep out rain, dust and dirt, but it won't keep 
water from seeping into the bore from the chamber end when 
your rifle gets dunked. This water's got to be removed before J 
you try to fire. 





So get with that routine in para 2-11 to your new -12 TM 
before you fire oflf. 


From 17 to 20's fine, but 2rs too 
many when you're loading cartridges 
in the magazine of your M16A1 rifle. 
It won't give you extra fighting power 
. . . more likely it'll put you out of the 
fight — 'cause that extra round will 
spread the lips and the ammo won't 
feed right. 

When unloading, never flip the 
rounds out with another cartridge. 
You'll spread the lips this way, too. 
Instead, slide the rounds out straight 
ahead . , . like they go into the chamber. 





When you're taking your magazine 
apart here's as far as you can go. Any 
further and you might damage it. 

1. Stick cortridge point in here to press the 
floor plate release. 

2. Slide out the floor plate. 

3. Work the spring back and forth gently as 
you tug it outward. 

4. Stop tugging when the follower reoches 
the tabs and ears and don't separate the 
spring from the follower. 

Careful . . . you don't stretch or bend 
the spring and don't bend the tabs. Easy 
does it all the way. 

For cleaning the disassembled mag 
— Either dunk it in rifle bore cleaner 
and shake it good while submerged 

OR — scrub the inside with a brush 
soaked with cleaner 

OR — Use a rag soaked in bore 

Then dry it out good with a swab or 
rag (or even your shirtail in a pinch). 

After you clean the inside of the 
magazine, ^vipe the spring oJBf and see 
that it's not busted or deformed. If it's 
OK, apply a very-very-very light coat 
of lube — using a rag dampened with 

This mag is coated with dry lubri- 
cant. It doesn't need any lubing except 
for the spring. 

Here's the easy way . . . gently: 

1. Nose the bullet end of the follower into 
the body at a 45-degree angle till it 
touches the inside edge of the body. 

3. Just wiggle the spring into the mag as far 
as it'll go. 

Make sure the printing on the floor plate 
is on the outside. Slide the plate in this 
way, then press the spring down with 
your thumb. And moke sure the floor plate 
goes under all 4 tabs, too. 











Not easy, that's for sure, when you're wading 
streams and rice paddies or in heavy rainfaU. 
Normally clean water itself is not harmful. 
Brackish water — that's another story. But the 
real harm comes when you don't do anything 
about it after your stuff gets wet. 

Here' re some ideas that might help: 


, ^^^ When fording, try to keep your mags out 
of the water. This means holding your rifle 
'way up there and, if you can, keep the 
pouch with the spares above the water 

Soon as you come out of the drink — if 
Charlie's not interfering, natch — take the 
mags out and shake em good a couple 
of times to get rid of most of the water. 

nhen at the first breather — when you're sure Charlie's not around — empty each mag- 
azine, wipe it dry inside and out with your shirttail or swab and then clean both the ammo 
and the magazine. 


JQu^o You M16A1 zapmen using a plastic bag (FSN 1O0&-O52-G942) to protect your loaded 
gazlne, use your head. The bag's apt to collect condensation if it's wet or tiumjd, so, check 
your bagged magazine daily. If you see beads of condensation inside the bag, la.k6 off the bag and 
dry it, the magazine and the ammo thorougtily - and don't forget that little film of LSA on the mag- 
azine spring. This bag, y'know, won't excuse you from regular PM chores. 


F'goshsakes, never put oil of any kind — including LSA — on the cartridges 
or inside your magazine! Lube ruins ammo and collects gook — could leave 
you helpless in a fight! This mag is coated with dry lubricant. It doesn't need 
any lubing except for the spring — and that only very lightly, with LSA. 

Take care of your magazines — and 
hang on to 'em. Sure, there' re plenty of 
'em in supply — world-wide — but they 
could get mighty scarce in your own 
sector. So, protect 'em from dents 
(aluminum can't take rough treatment) 
— and especially, remember to bring 
those "empties" back. The one you save 
just might save you some day. 




No matter what size truck you pilot where the action is -- any where from a l/4-ton Misi to 
a 10-ton M123 -- make sure it's equipped with a bracket to hold your (and your side-kick's) 
M16A1 or Ml4 rifles, 

If you jockey one of those new 1-1/4-ton M715's or MT25's, no sweat. They come equipped 
with a single rifle bracket mounted on the left side of the panel behind the driver's seat. 

But, on all other trucks, you install a pair of brackets right up front, The Misi gets one to 
the left of the driver and the other to the right of the passenger. The others get 2 located just 
to the right of the driver. 

Anyway, the item you want goes by the moniker: KIT, MOUNTING, RIFLE BRACKET, and 
answers to FSN 2590-04&-9611. The bracket will handle either the M16A1 or the Mi4, though 
you may have to do a little maneuvering to get the M16 to fit the way you want it. 

Here's where to look for installation and parts poop for ttfe various vehicles: 
TB 9-2300-209-20 ( B Feb 67) for 3/4-, 2-1/2-, 5- and 10-ton trucks. 
TM a-2320-218-20 (Apr 63) with Change 2 (16 Nov 65) for the M151 1/4-tonners. 


So you've got the new XM- 
177ElorXMl77E2 5.56-MM Submachinej 
Gun — or you're expecting it on 
the next chopper! 

So, here's the Numbah One poop on it: 

It needs exactly the same tender loving care and cleaning as the MI6AI 
rifle. Give out with this TLC and you'll escape the woes some Joes had because 
they skimped PM on their Sweet I6's. 

Yeah, this Shorty's pretty much like the MI6AI — it's just shorter in the 
barrel and hand guards, has an adjustable butt stock and a combination noise 
and flash suppressor. Most of its other parts are common to the MI6AI. 

All cleaning and lubing requirements are the same, too — and if you don't do 
'em Shorty' 11 act up. Even the cleaning tools are the same. 

You'll find all the parts common to the Shorty in POMM 9-1005-294-14. 










^ AND